Helsinki and the Baltics : 4 cities, 6 days

When we tell people we spent the Christmas holidays in Finland and the Baltics, people ask "why". But we say: "Why not?" (The Baltic States are three countries in Northeastern Europe : Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.)

HELSINKI

Market Square at 10:30 a.m.

On Dec. 26th, don't expect the sun to rise very much above the horizon.

What to do : Visit Suomenlinna, an inhabited sea fortress and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ferry runs between Market Square and Suomenlinna up to four times per hour, depending on the time of day, and costs roughly 6 euro round-trip. It's an eerie but super interesting visit that could take a good part of the day. It's also free! Note: It's extremely windy so if you're there in winter, dress warmly!

 Suomenlinna

 Suomenlinna - We told you it was eerie.

 Suomenlinna - Yes, people actually live here. 

Suomenlinna - King's Gate

Suomenlinna Church - Originally Eastern Orthodox, now Evangelical Lutheran.

Where to stay : Hotel Finn. The location doesn't get much better, and nor does the price! For about 53 euro per night, we got a private double room with private bathroom. In other words : just over 25 euro per night each! Keep in mind that this is Scandinavia (according to the Finns, at least...) and things are pricey. 

 Helsinki Cathedral at Senate Square

Where to eat and drink : You've got us on this one. We were only in Helsinki a brief time, and we really couldn't figure out the best spots to grab a bite or a drink. If you have any suggestions, let us know!

To get from Helsinki to Tallinn : The Tallinn Silja Line has (massive) ferries that run between Helsinki and Tallinn. The trip takes two hours and costs 36 euro. Careful! The ferry doesn't leave from the same terminal as the Suomenlinna ferry! It leaves from the West Terminal (Länsiterminaali), which is accessible by tram.

TALLINN

 Of course, there are still some reminders of the Soviet era.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, built back when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire.

 St Nicholas' Church, partially destroyed in the Soviet bombings of WW2.

 The Tallinn town hall is the oldest in Scandinavia and the Baltics.

What to do : Tallinn is a little fairy tale village. The old center is not very big, but to get the most out of it, we recommend a free guided walking tour. If you are going to do a museum, we recommend the Kiek in de Kök, an artillery tower built in 1475 that got its name from its occupants' pastime of peeking down into the kitchens of the houses below. 

 Hansel and Gretel? Rapunzel? 

View from the Kiek in de Kök tower

Where to stay : Three Crowns Residents. For 38 euro per night for two people (so 19 each), you get a private room, private bathroom AND breakfast! Plus, it's located in the heart of the old town. You will literally feel like you just walked into a Brothers Grimm story.

 Remnants of a fortified city.

 Old town Tallinn

Where to eat : We are all about trying local cuisine, and in Tallinn, the go-to place is Vanaema Juures (Grandma's Place). You can find it in the old town on Rataskaevu, a few steps from the town hall square. Must-try : Kama, the traditional Estonian dessert made with sour milk.

Kama and wine, a winning combination.

To get from Tallinn to Riga : The Lux Express bus leaves from the Tallinn Coach Station and makes the 4-hour trip to Riga. A ticket costs 21 euro, but get this : free wifi and movies!

RIGA

Riga Town Hall Square

The Three Brothers, the oldest complex of dwelling houses in Riga. 

 It's not December in Europe without a Christmas market!

 Riga's famous Cat House. It's worth Googling.

Riga Castle founded in 1330. 

What to do : Like most European cities, the Old Town of Riga is absolutely beautiful. But it is well worth venturing outside of this area to see what else Riga has to offer. For example, check out the Riga Central Market. Built in five old German Zeppelin hangars, it is Europe's largest market and bazaar (warning : hold your nose in the fish pavilion). Also check out the Art Nouveau district around Alberta iela (Alberta Street) and the take a walk along the waterfront.

Riga Central Market. They pickle everything.

Waterfront along the Daugava River overlooking the Railway Bridge.

Latvian Academy of Sciences, a.k.a. Stalin's birthday cake.

Art Nouveau building on Alberta iela

We don't know how this happened.

Where to stay : Weldon Hotel Riga & Spa. For 2 people for 2 nights, it cost us only 100 euro. We had a beautiful, modern and clean room and bathroom, plus a MASSIVE breakfast included... this breakfast was worth the money in itself! Champagne and all.

Hotel breakfast, round 1.

Where to eat and drink : There is no better spot in town than Ala : Cheap and DELICIOUS food and drinks in generous servings...it doesn't get much better than this. Be prepared to meet all kinds of (mostly young) people from all around the globe.

Traditional Latvian grey peas at Ala. 4.10 euro. #winning

To get from Riga to Vilnius : The Lux Express bus travels between the Riga Coach Station and the Vilnius Coach Station. The trip takes about 4 hours and costs 16 euro (for students up to 26 years of age).

VILNIUS

Cathedral Square

Gediminas' Tower

Old Town Vilnius by nightfall

What to do : In every city, there is always the obvious stuff to see and do, and then there is the not-so-obvious. Vilnius is no exception. If you're into the normal stuff, take a stroll through the Old Town, visit Cathedral Square, walk up to Gediminas' Tower, you know the drill. But if you are looking for something slightly alternative and highly interesting, we recommend the Soviet Vilnius Tour. For only 10 euro, a dynamic guide will walk you through the important landmarks of Lithuania's Soviet occupation, complete with an abandoned sports complex and a Frank Zappa statue. Not to be missed!

Lukiskes Square, formerly Lenin Square. 

Former KGB Headquarters which today hosts the Museum of Genocide Victims

 Abandoned Soviet sports complex. Did you know Lithuanians are excellent basketball players?

Frank Zappa Statute. Google it!

Where to stay : We stayed at the Alexa Old Town Hotel Vilnius. For 75 euro for 2 people for 2 nights, you got what you paid for, which was a small, slightly old but comfortable room. Nothing more, nothing less.

Where to eat and drink : For a true feel of the Soviet period, you have to try Neringa Restaurant, who's interior and decor remains relatively unchanged since its opening in 1959. If you are looking for something more compatible with the hipster scene, try Deveti on Sodu g.

Old Town by dusk 

Neringa Restaurant 

Deveti

Oh and one more thing : Vodka is really cheap. In fact, they sell it in "individual" servings.